Vogue, especially in its bulky September issue, has more pages of nothing I want to read than most other magazines. I went to this documentary about its production partly in honor of my daughter who loves fashion, though happily in a forgiving way. She encourages me, say, to break away from black and gray, but she respects my limits: she’s never advocated I try a hairstyle that might require maintenance or try my balance beyond a chunky half inch heel. I went to this movie feeling a bit out of my element, and indeed in Amherst, MA, renowned for much but not fashion, I was one of two in the theater.
I loved September Issue
http://www.theseptemberissue.com/#/home. Editor-in-chief Anna Wintour was pretty much what I expected from Meryl Streep’s version in The Devil Wears Prada: there were the Starbucks she seemed to exist on, the decisive eyebrows, the terrible silences, the sizing up of a dress with a pinch of her fingers. But what structured the documentary, besides the forward movement of putting out the 2007 issue weighing almost five pounds, was an implicit comparision between Wintour and creative director Grace Coddington. We learned some of the history of both, including how they began at American Vogue around the same time. Grace was warm to Wintour’s cool, daring to her famous and editorially useful judgements.
While Wintour mentioned more than once the need for fashion to charge forward, Grace apologized for her love of the romantic past that shaped her artistic vision. We saw her face turn rapt as she stood in a Paris garden, and watched her keep her eyes open everywhere. She pored through books of old photographs, and admired the beauty of an old woman’s “fat leg.” She set up a shot of a photographer jumping next to a model. Wintour coolly eyed this spirited photograph, and while accepting its charm, noted the photographer needed to go to the gym. Hearing of this afterward, Grace assured the photographer he looked fine, that it was enough that models were perfect – eyebrows lifting on that word. Then she got on the phone to make sure the belly wasn’t edited out, as was happening with Sienna Miller’s teeth fillings and something about her neck.
It was a great movie about tension between creative and editorial forces, and there were poignant glimpses throughout. It was hard to watch Grace see her work dismissed in seconds, and speak about how seeing such it was hard to go on to the next thing: though she did.
Interviewers asked Wintour’s daughter if she ever might edit the magazine, and when she said No, the edges of her mother’s mouth tightened as if she’d just seen a very terrible dress. The daughter clearly saw this too, and went for peacekeeping: Well right now I’m concentrating on college. But when she was interviewed alone, she said, and I paraphrase: the people there think fashion is the world and really there’s so much more. She shook her imperfect hair, laughed, waved her hands beautifully, much like the young and talented designer Thakoon as he talked about his work; then kept them still when he was graced at a party by a swift step back from Wintour, allowing a burst of flashbulbs as they stood together.